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THE 

American Metrical System 

— for — 

CUTTING 



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And all Close Fitting Garments. 



WITII A 



ifiBLE OF CSLCULflTIONS FOR ALL SIZES. 



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Gopyrioht Secured November 30, 1883. 



PUBLISHED BY 

CARMAN & BLANEY, 

1884. 

AgaiitS-* wanted in every County and State. 



MEASURES TO TAKE 



MOW TO T A K E THEM 



/ I \l E a cord or string around the waist, quite tight; 
measure around the ( neck close, for neck measure* 
measure around the arm, below the shoulder, tight, 
for Arm's Eye. For bust, measure around the fullest part 
of bust, and well up between the shoulders, placing the ends 
of two fingers over the front part of bust, letting the 
tape pass over the fingers. Take the waist measure Light. 
Take front measure from the most prominent bone in 
the back of necly^ over the shoulder and full part of bust,, 
to the string or cord around the waist, in front. Take 
back measure from same bone in back of neck, to the cord 
or string around the waist. 

Measure under arm, by placing tape far as possible m 

under the arm, and measure down to string around v 

Measure shoulder by placing tape as far up on neck, as 

dress is wanting to be worn, measuring down over o 

of shoulder. 
< 

Measure sleeve by measuring along the arm from 

point of shoulder, on outside of arm, to prominent bone 

in the wrist, while the arm is bent, by placing the i: i 

on most prominent part of bust, elbow being raised even 

v/illi the hand. Elbow measure from point of shoulder to 

below elbow, and around elbow, measure around wrist, close 

to skin. 

Skirts, measure from waist to the floor. 



LESSON I. 
bag::. 

Draw top 7 i:ie near upper edge of cloth, and front line 
near front ed ;e, and square from top line. KTake point N 
] C. 04' | inch from top line. Make point P, 5 (J. or 2 inches 
from top line. 

Draw point of shoulder line square from P and front 
line. Make point W on front line just the length of back, 
below X. . Draw waist line s juire from W, and front. 
Make point L, on waist line according to table. Make point 
G, on waist line 1 C. or J in. from W. Make point H, on 
.front line 15 (\ or 6 in. below point W. Draw hip line 
square from point II, and front line. Make a second point 
K, on hip line, 8 C. or 3 in. or once and a half the length of 
waist line.. 

Make point U, on front line, length of under arm, above 
W. Draw gore line from U to G, and from G to point H. 
Draw neck line from TX on a curve to top, by scale. Draw 
shoulder line, by placing scale at junction of neck and top 
lines, and 9 C. or 3 J in. mark at point of shoulder line. 
Draw shoulder line 5 M. or J in. longer than J shoulder. 
Draw side back line, from point of shoulder to L. Draw 
side back hip line, from L to second point II on hip line. 

Rule. — To obtain back neck, divide whole neck by 
8, or use scale. 

To obtain back waist line, see Table, or divide whole 

DJ LA. 



C. — Centimeter. 
&£. — Millimeter. 



LESSON ! 1 . 

•COMMON SIDE BACK. 

Draw front line near edge of cloth ; and draw top line 
square from top of front line. 

Make point S for side body line 8 Centimeters or 3 
inches from front line on top line. 

Make point P, on front line, 5 C or 2 inches 
from top line. Draw point of shoulder line, square from 
P and front. Make point W, on front line from point S 
the length of side body line in Lesson I. Draw side back 
line from point S straight across point \V. Draw waist lino, 
from point W and square from front; and make point L on 
waist line, according to table or rule. Make point U, on 
front line above W the length of under arm. Draw under 
arm line from point U and squire from front ; and make p*>int 
B, according to table of bust measure for common back. 
Draw under arm gore line, from point B to L. Draw shoulder 
line, by placing corner of scale at point S, with 9 C. or 3 J 
inch mark, touching point of shoulder line. Draw shoulder 
line, 5 M. or | in. longer than J shoulder. If it is more 
than 10 C. or 4 in. from point of shoulder to point B, then 
draw under arm gore line, up. Draw arm's eve line in a 
slight curve from point of shoulder to end of under arm li •<•. 
Make point H, 15 C. or 6 inches, below point W on front 
] ine. Draw hip line square from H and front; draw side 
back hip line, straight on from W. — Low as hip line. Make 
a second H, on hip line, 3 C. or 1 J inches from front, longer 
than waist line; and draw under arm gore hip line, from 
point L, to last point H on a curve. 

Rule. — To obtain waist line of side back, divide whole 
waist by 10 or see table. 



LESSON III. 

UNDEU ARM GOKE. 

Draw front rjore line on front edge of paper or eloth. 

Draw under arm gore line, parallel to front line, and 
just the distance from it given by table or rule for waist 
line of under arm gore. 

Make point A, 5 ('. or 2 inches from top of paper or 
cloth and on front gore line. Make point W, on front gore line 
the exact measure of under arm below first point A. 

Draw waist line, from point W and square from front 
gore line to under arm gore line, making point L at end of 
Fine and on under arm gore line. Make point E, on under 
arm gore line above point L, just the length of under arm 
gore line in side body. 

Draw arm's eye line, with considerable curve down- 
ward, from point E to point A on front line, or 5 M. 
or \ inch below it. Make point G, on waist line 5 M. or 
i inch from point W. 

Draw front gore line, from point A, or 5.M. or J inch 
below it to point G. Make first point H, 15 C. or G inches 
below point \V on front line; make a second point H, 3 C. or 
1 inch outward from front line. 

Draw a curved front gore hip line, from point G to second 
point H. Make a third point H, 15 C. or 6 inches below 
point L on under arm gore line; and make fourth point H, 
5 C. or 2 inches outward from third point H. 

Draw under arm gore hip line from point L to last 
point Ii, on a curve. 

Rule 1st. — To obtain waist line or width of under arm 
gore, divide whole waist measure by 8, or see Table. 



LESSON IV. 

FRENCH BACK. 

Draw top and front line same as any other back. Make 
point Njj5 M. or J inch from top line on frontline; and 
point P, 9 V. or 3 \ inches from point, N. Draw point of 
gfioulder line square, from point P and front line. Measure 
down front line below point N, just the length of back 
measure, and make point W. Make point L, square from 
point VV and front lute, just the distance given in table or 
rule for back waist line, (see table or rule). Draw back 
waist line, from point W to point L. Make point G, 1 C. or 
|- inch from point W oil waist line. Make point U, just the 
distance above point \V, and on frontline, as the under arm 
measure. Draw under arm line, square from point U and 
front line. Make point B for bust measure on under arm 
line, as given for French back in table or rule, (see table 
or rule). Draw neck line same as in common back, (see 
table and rule). Place 18 C. or 7 inch -mark on point 
of shoulder line, with rule or square touching junction of top 
and neck lines. Draw shoulder line, 1 C. or J inch longer 
than shoulder measure. If point B on under arm line" is 
more than 10 C. or 4 inches from point of shoulder line, 
then draw a straight arm's eve line from point of shoulder, 
6 C. or 2J inches towards point B; and make a new point B 
just 6 C. or 2J inches from point of shoulder; and draw 
adjusting line parallel with point of shoulder line, and across 
new point B. Draw side back line by placing small end of 
pasteboard at point L, on waist line, and larger end. at new 
point B ; and draw side bach line, from point B to point L. 
Draw back gore line, from point U to point G. Draw 
balance of lines same as in common back. 

RuiJs 1st. — To get bach waist line, divide whole waist 
by 12, or see table. 

Rn/E 2d. — Divide whole neck by 8 to get length of 
back neck, or use scale. 



LESSON V. 

FKENCU SIDE BODY. 

Draw top line near edge of paper or cloth. Draw front. 
line near front edge of paper or cloth, and siuare from top 
line. Male point W on front line just the distance from top 
line as the distance is between adjusting line and waist line 
in Lesson IV. Make point L square from point W and 
front line as the table or rule gives for length of side 
back waist line. Draw side back waist line from W to J,. 
Draw side back line same as you drew side back line in 
Lesson IV, starting from point W on waist line and ending 
at top line. 

Draw arm's eye line square from top line, at junction of 
side back line, 4 C. or 1J inches to point A. Then 
draw under arm gore line straight from point A to point 
L on waist line. Make point H, 15 C. or f> inches bolow 
point W on front line, and another point H out-ide of front 
line e3, C. or 1 inch therefrom. 

Make a new point H, 15 C. or G inches square beJow 
point L, and square from waist line ; and make a fourth or 
last point H, 4 C. or 1J inches from third H. 

Draw under arm hip line from point L, on a curve, so 
it will pass over fourth or last point H, and the lower part 
of side back line so it will pass straight from point AV over 
second point H. 

Rule. — To obtain side body waist line, divide whole 
waist by 10, or see table. 



LESSON VI. 

FROST BODY» 

D.-iiw front line near edge of paper or clo h. D nv/ top iine square 
from upj:er e;i I of tVimt line. Make point P, u C. or 2-} inches from top 
line an- 1 pi ant N for front neck measure, according to table or rule. Draw 
point of shoulder line square from point P and front line. Make point B 
y..oi half the length of arm's eye measure below point P on front line. 

Draw Iront bust line square from point B and front line ; and make 
p nnt L for frnnt bust measure, according to table or rule. Make another 
p >hit L just the distance from first point L as the table gives for under 
urm gore in width. Make point W just the length of under arm measure 
below point B, and draw waist line square from point W and front line. 

Draw front neck line, according to table and rule, with scale, 
from point N to top line. Draw shoulder line the actual length of 
shoulder measure, starting at the junction of neck and top lines having 
IS C. or 7 inch mark touching point of shoulder line. 

Draw front gore line so it will pass over point L, parallel with front 
line. Make a new 'point L, 5 M. or ^ inch below last point L on front gore 
(die. Make point 65 C. or 2 inches below last point L on front gore line. 
Make point T on front line, 1,1 C. or 4f inches below point B. 

Draw top of darts line from point T on front line to point G on 
front gore line. Make point D on front line for front measure just the 
distance from junctions of neck, too and shoulder lines as the front 
measure is, less the back neck measure. See Lesson I and IV. 

Draw arm's eye line by making point A, 2 C. and 5 M. or 1 inch 
above bust line, and straight down from point of shoulder, make point E, 
2 C. or ■■■ inch from point A towards front line. 

Draw arm's eye line from new point L, in a curved line, to point E, 
and almost straight from there to point of shoulder. Draw dart line from 
point D on front line to junctions of waist and front gore lines. Make 
point 1 on dart line, 5 C. or 2 inches from point D. Make point 2 on dart 
line just the distance from point 1 as given in table for size of dart*'. 
Make point 3, three C. or 1 inch from point 2. Make point 4 the distance 
from point 3 as the size of darts. Make poims 5 and 6 respectively centre 
of darts. Make point 7, five M. or £ inch from front gore line, and on dart 
line. Draw centre of dart lines respectively from points 5 and 6 to top of 
dart line, and square with bust line, marking about 5 M. or 4- inch to the 
right on top of dart line. Draw curved lines from there respectively to 
points 1, 2, 3 and 4, so as to form the darts etc. 

Draw centre of dart lines from centre of darts and square from waist 
line, 30 C. or 11 or 12 inches below waist line, and draw straight lines from 
these points back again to points 1, 2, 3 and 4, so as to form loiverpart of 
darts, etc. Draw front gore hip line from point 7, in a curve, 15 C. or 
G inehej below 7, and 3 C. or 1 inch back from front gore hip line, and 
draw line from point G to point 7 

Rule 1st. — To £ei trout "just measure, subtract 2 inches or 5 
.centimeters from whole bust measure, and divide remainder of bust 
measure by 3, and you vail have front bust measure, from which you must 
subtract width of under arm gore, or eonsidi table. 

Kule 2d. — To get front neck, multiply whole neck by 2, and divide 
bv 7, or see table. 



LES~ >N VII. 

SLEEVE. 

Dnw top and front line square, or at right angle with 
c h other. Make point A on top line distant from front 
b half a) r.i'ti eye measure. Ma'<e point P, 3 0. or one inch 
i top lino on front line. Mai>c point I on front line, 
1 ; (.:'. or 4 iir.hes from top lino. Draw point of sleeve line 
: i'i ire from P and front line. Make point S on point of 
sleeve line one-half arm's eye measure from front line. Make 
point L, f»C. or 2 inches from point Son point of sleeve line. 
Mark point II half way between points A and S. Make 
point E on front line arm to elbow measure from top line. 
Make point W on front line arm t > wrist measure from top 
line. Make point 1 one inch from point W on front line. 
Draw lower wrist line square from point W and front line. 
Make point 2 one-half wrist measure from point W on lower 
wrist line. Draw upper wrist line from point 2 across 
point 1 to edge of paper. Make point 3 on upper wrist line, 
4 0. or 1\ inches from point 1. Draw elbow line square 
from point E and front line. • 

Make point 4 on elbow line, 3 C. or one inch from 
point E. Mike point .5 on elbow line one-half arm's eve 
measure from front line and point E. Make point 6 on 
elbow- line, 3 C. or one inch outside of point 5. Draw 
upper arm's eye lin^, in a curve, from A to I; draw lower 
arm's eye line in a reversed eurve from point H to I ; draw 
ppint of arm's eye line from point A to point L. Draw 
upper sleeve line on a slight curve, by scaie, from L to 
point 6, and under sleeve line from II to 5. Draw 
o 'bow line from 6 to point 2 ; and under elbow lino from 
point o to 2. Draw lower sleeve line from point I to 
point 4, and from point 4 to point 3. 

CAfiMAN & 3L.v tv; 
A 1 3 .T £3 T 7 *. 7T2I>. 'Steu b & n viiio , 

Ohio. 



TflE \El\PAf Vftf^lf. Ppl$ 







TABLE OF CALCULATIONS. 






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4. 


32 


2.6 


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42 


6.2 7.6 13.4 ! 


2.4 


15 


4.2 


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2.5 


3.1 


3.8 


41 


6. 7.5 13. ! 


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4.5 


30 


2.5 


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3.7 1 


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5.8 7.3 12.7, 


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29 


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5.6 7.* 


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138 


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19 


5. 


27 


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26 


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19 


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23 


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CAR^HAPI & BL 



STUEBENVILLE, OHIO. 



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COPYRIGHT SECURED NOV. 80, 1( 



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